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It is quite fascinating to examine how fashion began in Europe. As we all know fashion is a reflection of the times we live in. One cannot separate fashion from what occurs around us and how social changes are reflected in the styles popular in society. Going through the ages it is interesting to see how fashion has adapted over the centuries.
The Greeks and Romans wore tunics, which were basically like skirts, and this can still be seen among the Scots who have traditionally worn kilts. During the 1st century, Greek men and women wore rectangular pieces of cloth of various sizes draped over the body without cutting or sewing the material. It was kept in place with a brooch or pins and a belt or cord around the waist. The preferred colour was white or natural tones.
During the early years in Europe the tunic, breeches and baggy trousers were worn. At one point most of Europe was completely influenced by the Roman style of dressing. In the end, breeches became popular and were worn at different lengths depending on your social class. In parts of Europe, such as Spain the lands occupied by the Moors of North Africa resulted in the infiltration of rich jewellery and fine materials far more luxurious that what was commonly found in Christian Europe. The concept of the Mohammedan veil was introduced at this period. The sleeves of dresses became longer and the wearing of gowns became common. By the 14th century the veil was abandoned and was only worn by widows and nuns. Instead, headdresses were the rage becoming increasingly elaborate and fantastic as the 15th century approached. During the 15th century, hats were increasingly worn and were a natural reaction to the headdresses. Some of the hats were like the modern bowler and others were adorned with plumes. Towards the end of that century a flat cap was worn, with a turned up-brim decorated with a single jewel.
By the Renaissance and 16th century there were so many changes that reflect some of today's fashion. For instance, the pointed shoes worn by men in the latter century was replaced by the broad-toed shoe that we are all familiar with today. The concept of slashing (the practice of cutting slits in the garment) became popular and is still practiced today. Also embroidery was prevalent in women's clothes and the bodice was introduced to create the tight- fitting waist. Hats were worn indoors as well as out and resembled a bonnet. The men began to wear their hair long and were mostly clean-shaven during the reign of Henry the 8th.
By the 17th century the influence of French fashion on the English was strong. It was quite popular to wear wigs with powder all over it. The cravat was introduced into fashion and was narrow and long tied like a ribbon around the neck. It was first made of lace and later of muslin. The concept of the tie would evolve from this in later years.
By the 18th century, the wig was difficult to maintain and the simple pigtail was introduced; the hair was simply held back with two ribbons one at the top and the other at the bottom. The death of Louis the 14th led to a new era in French fashion. The stiffness and formality of the French court was to be replaced by looser clothing with long flowing lines. The idea of dressing for comfort became a way of being stylish which we take for granted today. The hoop style of making skirts began at this time and this made the dresses so wide and flowing that it was difficult for two women to sit next to each other. The passion for shawls began and came originally from cashmere and was worn by the highly fashionable ladies. It became expensive to import cashmere and imitations of it were made in Paisley. The crinoline dress was the height of fashion and Princess Eugenie of France was so fond of it that she influenced others to wear it. During this time in France the fashion designers were gaining prominence. In the past the designers were humble people who visited rich women in their homes but at this period they set up shop and expected women to visit them. One of the most prominent of these designers was M. Worth who despite being an Englishman became a larger than life figure in Paris fashion circles. Women anxious to be dressed by him waited upon him at his salon.
By 1900-40 the fashion that we are familiar with today emerged. Great fashion icons like "Coco" Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli were not only fashion designers they formed part of a great artistic movement. Chanel was friendly with such greats as Picasso and Cocteau and Schiaperelli 's fashion business was so successful that it achieved by the 1930's the astonishing turnover of 120 million francs a year. By the 1920's more masculine clothes were introduced into women's fashion and the hemline went up by 1925 just above the knee. The shortness of skirts was a revolution and the Great Gatsby era was fun and frivolous and there was no looking back. The movies were also a new phenomenon and movie stars like Greta Garbo were admired as fashion trendsetters. Playing tennis and other sports assumed new heights because women could wear shorter hemlines and feel free from inhibition. The first and second world wars also brought changes and women's uniforms were made smart and comfortable. By 1939, Vogue magazine noted the increase in the variety of fashion models available. Also, by the 1920's hats were less broad and were made to fit tightly on the head (the cloche hat), this made it impossible to have long hair and the short bob became fashionable. The new liberated woman emerged and the androgynous style was in vogue.
By the 1960's onwards ready -to-wear was dominant and the couture concept was for a tiny minority. From 1968 the social climate began to change as unemployment and inflation rose. Women began to rebel against the imposed ideas of feminine beauty. The mini was the rage and designers like Mary Quant ruled the day. The hippie look predominated and ethnic fashions were made popular because of the rise of multi-culturalism in big cities like London and Paris. The afro was synonymous with the black community and hippies wore Afghan coats. By the 1970's, the Japanese designers arrived in Paris such as Kenzo and Issey Miyake. By the mid- 70's punk fashion slowly filtered into fashion and an even more rebellious attitude emerged. At this time the reggae legend Bob Marley appeared on stage with dreadlocks and a tracksuit and made it trendy to have dreadlocks and wear sportswear for comfort. The 1980's and the 90's produced a wide range of designers like Armani and Calvin Klein, Versace and the list is endless. The year 2000 signalled a new century which no doubt will bring its new styles and innovations.
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